Grand Nikko Tokyo Daiba Review

Then I looked up. The building was much larger than I had imagined. Its age showed at first glance, but its scale made the stronger impression. Opened in 1998 and operating under its current name since 2016, the hotel has 30 floors and 882 rooms. Its 20,870 m² site is roughly the area of three football pitches.

The walk from the entrance into the lobby is long, too. Broad stretches of marble and room to move gave it the formality of an old-school Japanese grand hotel. The years are visible, but the materials did not look cheap.

My room was on the Executive Floor, so I checked in at its dedicated second-floor reception rather than joining the main front-desk queue. There was no wait. Despite the size of the building, arrival felt uncomplicated; the easy journey from the airport continued all the way to the room.

I slept well on both nights and was not woken by noise from the corridor or neighbouring rooms. The hotel says this room uses an Airweave mattress pad. A good night's sleep and the feel of the bedding are separate questions for me, though. The mattress was comfortable without feeling exceptional. The sheets were pleasant, but not soft enough to make me linger in bed for their feel alone.

According to the hotel, the towels are Imabari-certified. To me, they felt like standard hotel towels rather than anything unusually soft. The white TRIPLE C dispenser with green lettering by the sink contains a green-tea face and hand soap made for hotels by Japanese soap company Pelican Soap. The three Cs refer to catechin, collagen and vitamin C.

The Maison de Lamer shampoo, conditioner and body wash in the shower are made by T.J, a Japanese hotel-amenities company; the bottles say 'By T J Lab'. The line contains Okinawan mozuku extract and is unrelated to Estée Lauder's similarly named La Mer skincare brand. The separate Moonpearl pouch is facial skincare from MIKIMOTO COSMETICS, which highlights pearl-derived ingredients. It held a cleanser, face wash, lotion and cream. I used the shampoo and body wash: both were adequate, but neither felt particularly luxurious.

At the desk, I could plug in my laptop without a Japanese plug adapter, and the Wi-Fi was fast enough for a little work in the room. Nespresso capsules and tea were also provided, so I could make a drink and return to the view.

Better still is the angle from the bed. I did not need to stand at the window to take in the bridge, the water and the city in one frame. I lay there doing nothing else for a long time. If you book this hotel, I strongly recommend a room specifically facing Rainbow Bridge. This stay was hosted, but I would gladly pay for the same view myself; it made the room rate feel worthwhile on its own. I saw it at three in the afternoon and was already looking forward to night.

Small cheesecakes, tarts and panna cotta were laid out beside a choice of Nespresso or JURA coffee. For me, this was a place to settle into a seat with a cup before going out.

The lighting made the same room feel calmer after dark. I preferred it this way. When I came back the next day, the food had changed too, which gave me a reason to return over a two-night stay.

Families should know one important limit before booking. The airport bus had made me think how easy this hotel would be with children, but Le CLUB's indoor pool is officially for guests aged 16 and over. A swim with young children cannot be part of the plan here.

After swimming, I could move straight to the sauna and showers. Having somewhere comfortable to wash and rest made the visit more satisfying than a pool alone would have been. The gym was spacious and well equipped. Its equipment looked older, but I did not find it shabby or poorly maintained.

I watched it alone for a long time. It made me feel strangely happy, in a way that went beyond admiring a pretty skyline. On arrival, I had thought mainly of families who could come here without difficulty. That night I wanted to recommend the room to couples and solo travellers too. I had not expected a view enjoyed on my own to feel quite so romantic.

I again wished there were a Bluetooth speaker for music. Still, the clearest memory from these two nights is the darkened room on the 26th floor. The view I describe is from Rainbow Bridge-facing Room 2604. If you want that same scene, make sure your booking actually specifies 'Rainbow Bridge Side'.

The set was considerably better than I expected. Seven pieces of sushi came with a small rice bowl and a hot pot simmering in a paper vessel. Watching the broth bubble inside the thin paper pot was a pleasure, and the warmth made the meal feel complete. There was enough to satisfy me without weighing down the morning. Most of all, the sushi itself was good.

Between pieces, I looked out across Tokyo Bay from the 30th floor and slowed down. The view gave me a reason to linger over an already good breakfast. Of the hotel breakfasts I have eaten in Japan, it belongs in my personal top three. I went up with modest expectations and came down in an excellent mood.

After eating, I was curious enough to walk through The Grill on 30th and photograph its breakfast selection. I saw breads, salads and hot dishes among the buffet-style accompaniments, but did not eat there, so I cannot judge the food. The posted price for the sushi breakfast was ¥4,000 at the time. Even if your rate includes breakfast, check which restaurant and menu your particular plan covers.

At DiverCity, I had a tempura rice bowl, or tendon, at Nihonbashi Tendon Kaneko Hannosuke on the second floor. Afterwards, I bought a chocolate-cone ice cream from DECORA CREAMERY, which also sells cotton-candy ice cream on the same level. I had not set out looking for memorable meals, but I kept thinking about that rice bowl and the ice cream afterwards.

I also had an avocado burger at KUA`AINA on Aqua City's fourth floor. After eating, I could keep browsing the shops or walk straight back to my room.

I went out again after dark. Lights along the shore made the same walk feel quite different. I photographed the statue close up, then returned to the hotel under the night skyline. I could leave the room whenever the mood took me and come back as soon as I was tired. By the second day, that freedom made me want to raise the score I had given the hotel on the first.

While I was there, though, much of what I needed was on this 'island': the room's view, the pool and lounges, a convenience store and drugstore at the door, and two shopping centres within walking distance. I bought things I might otherwise have sought at Don Quijote and found meals without boarding a train. The hotel connects to Daiba Station on the Yurikamome line, so setting off for the rest of Tokyo is straightforward. The real question is where you intend to spend most of your trip.

Even a first-time visitor should have little trouble finding the station. But after you have seen Tokyo a few times, and want to settle into one district for a slower stay, this hotel's strengths come into much clearer focus. On my second day I walked around Odaiba and barely thought about the train.

The previous day's sushi breakfast came with the 30th-floor panorama. On my final morning, I sat by the window and took my time over the Japanese room-service breakfast, with Rainbow Bridge in view. I enjoyed both breakfasts for different reasons. That was one of the hotel's more pleasant surprises.

There are shortcomings. The bathroom looks dated, and although I slept well, the sheets and towels did not feel as fine as those in the best hotels I have tried. The shampoo and body wash I used were unremarkable. I missed outdoor sandals for a quick errand and a Bluetooth speaker in the room. Anyone moving back and forth between Odaiba and Shibuya or Ginza will spend time in transit. I grew fond of the hotel without mistaking it for a flawless one.

Nor would I dismiss it because of its age. The lobby's marble and the bathroom tiles did not strike me as flimsy materials. I cannot identify their exact grade, but the building gave me the impression that care went into its scale and finish from the beginning. My room, renovated in 2017, felt warm, and its 42 m² footprint and Rainbow Bridge view would give me reasons to return even alongside newer hotels.

The lobby scent took longer to register. Rhinitis often dulls my sense of smell, but after two days I noticed a gentle fragrance as I came inside. It was soft rather than overpowering, and made coming back feel comfortable. The hotel calls its signature scent 'Another Tokyo'. I appreciated how lightly it was used.

When I stepped off the bus from Narita, I had no idea this hotel would stay with me. If I had to choose one image, it would be Rainbow Bridge as I opened the curtains on the 26th floor. Yet that is not the only reason I would go back. Breakfast was good, the pool was made for real swimming, and going out and coming back in Odaiba was effortless. Next time, I would book the same side of the hotel and give myself another day.